USA
Advanced Suspension Setup for Mountain Bikes
MTB Suspension: A Technical Deep Dive
In our previous article, we went over the basics of suspension. Now we want to look a bit deeper and give you a much better understanding of the subject. We’ll look at the terms people use and tell you how to break them down.
What is a rebound click?
Everyone talks about rebound clicks, and if you read our previous article, you use them to move your suspension from fully open to fully closed or vice versa. A click makes a change to your rebound damping.
What is rebound damping?
Damping is the change of kinetic energy into heat. Your spring stores energy and your damper dissipates it. Rebound damping controls the rate at which your spring returns to its original position. Without it, you'd be bouncing uncontrollably after every hit.
How does this affect me?
If you have too many clicks towards open, your bike will feel like a "rodeo clown"—bucking you off jumps and losing traction in turns. If you are too far closed, the suspension "packs down," meaning it doesn't return fast enough to handle the next bump, making the ride feel harsh and stiff.
Rule of thumb: A click too fast and you lose control; a click too slow and your bike feels harsh.
Suspension Lockout & Damping Modes
Lockout gives you a rigid platform for climbing or road sections. Most modern systems like Fox CTD (Climb, Trail, Descend) or RockShox (Open, Pedal, Lock) allow you to toggle between maximum efficiency for climbing and maximum plushness for descending.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I know if my rebound is set correctly without a trail?
A: Try the "Curb Test." Ride off a standard curb while sitting in the saddle. Your suspension should compress, rebound, and settle back to its original position in exactly one movement. If it bounces more than once, your rebound is too fast (needs more damping).
Q: Does temperature affect my suspension settings?
A: Yes! Suspension oil becomes thicker in cold weather and thinner in hot weather. You may find your suspension feels "sluggish" in winter, requiring you to open your rebound by a click or two to compensate.
Q: What is the difference between High-Speed and Low-Speed Rebound?
A: High-Speed Rebound (HSR) controls how the fork recovers from deep travel (like a big drop or jump). Low-Speed Rebound (LSR) controls recovery from small chatter and weight shifts while pedaling. Most entry-level forks only have one adjuster which usually controls LSR.
Q: Should I clean my suspension stanchions after every ride?
A: Absolutely. Use a clean, soft cloth to wipe away dust and mud from the stanchions (the shiny tubes). This prevents dirt from being pulled under the seals, which is the #1 cause of internal damage and expensive service bills.
Q: Can I use WD-40 on my suspension seals?
A: No! Standard WD-40 can actually damage rubber seals and wash away the essential internal grease. Only use specific suspension silicon lubes if recommended, or simply keep them clean and dry.
Spotting suspension issues
- Leaking oil: Black gunk around seals means an immediate service is required.
- Leaking air: If your "sag" changes mid-ride, your air seals are failing.
- Squelching/Knocking: These are "dark magic" sounds you don't want. Knocking usually means internal mechanical failure—stop riding immediately!
